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Description
This burly climb is a lot of fun. It starts with hand stack burly move into a ~10 foot wide roof crack of 4" to 8". Pull around the lip and continue up more wide crack (crux) for a few moves before gaining the head wall and somewhat easier technical climbing above. There is no anchor. Build an anchor at the boulder.
Location
Once into Brumley Canyon you'll locate this obvious line as the wide crask that splits a wide pillar. To access the climb choose a path of least resistance down to the creek and back up the other side, bushwacking a fair bit. The start of the climb is at an obvious rock shelf/ledge. Shimmy up on top of the ledge and you'll be able to see the wide crack start just above your head.
Protection
Double set from .4 to #5 camalot (or one #5 and one #6) and a few medium nuts. A handful of quickdraws,
Routes in Brumley Canyon
- 1Bumpin' Uglies5.11+Trad