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Peak Mountain 3

Lichening The Serpent

FA Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Billy Butler
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The opening moves set the tempo for this exposed and sustained classic. The crux is through the bottom moves but does not jump out at you as a crux at any time. It is pretty sustained, balancy, and thin climbing from the get go. You have to move like a serpent would in S shapes and have good footwork. Very interesting and a must do, but not on a wet day.

Location

Same as for Diablo at The Early Wall then climb either Drunk Rednecks, Clip Art, or Dr. Diablo and go above the anchors to a sketchy 5th class scramble(a green Alien protects a move) up to the belay anchors for Lichening The Serpent that is located at a notch between the wall and a very large block.

Protection

8 bolts to a two bolt anchor.