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Peak Mountain 3

It's Just a Scramble

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Description

NOTE: Tower & route name are my own as I couldn't find any given names. Correct me and I will correct this post!

Scramble up cl. 3 slabs until you reach the bulge. While the crack on the left looks more promising, for a free ascent place a 0.2 C4 or eq. Totem high in the right crack and do a fun combination of jamming, liebacking, and yarding on the bomber face jug on the right wall to get over the bulge (5.8). Climb back up and left into an easy chimney to get to the top (cl. 4).

There are no anchors on the top, but what worked for us was for me to rappel to the SE through a notch while Brian was backed up on the summit gear anchor, and then for him to clean that and rapp the route with the rope fixed to me as a meat anchor on the opposite side. The pull was easy. A 70m rope might be better for this than 60m.

This route name is inspired by this gem & inside joke from

Sarah Meiser

.

Location

Follow the wash and slabs to the first tower immediately North of the road. Leave your meat-anchor belayer on the slabs at whatever spot seems prudent and scramble on up.

Protection

#0.2, 0.75, 1, 4 C4 for climbing, #0.3, 0.4 & 4 worked well for a summit anchor after some digging with the nut tool.


Routes in Garden of Eden Unknown Tower #1


  1. 1
    It's Just a Scramble
    5.8
    Trad