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Description
P1, 5.7: climb up the obvious crack with several bushes at the bottom. The crux is near the top with a steep section of crack. It can be avoided by traversing around to the left. Build the belay on the ledges after you pull the steep section. This pitch has lots of loose chossy rock. Really not great climbing
P2, 5.9: this is the money pitch. It more than makes up for the disappointing first pitch. Follow the same crack up towards the chimney. Take the wide finger crack on the left up the left side of the chimney. Keep following the hand cracks up to a ledge with a steep and short boulder above it. Pull this boulder to gain the sand ridgeline. There is an old nut and a new piton as of October 2020 you can belay/rap from. Beware of all the loose rocks on top of the ridge when belaying your second up. The rest of the route is solid with good placements.
When rappeling off, you can make it to a tree below your first belay station if you have a 70m rope. You can rappel off that to avoid leaving additional gear.
Location
As you're walking along the base of the wall, you'll see a very obvious crack. There are two bushes and one tiny tree at the base of the crack. If you follow the crack straight up, you'll see a large notch in the ridge with a block sitting in between the notch. The coordinates for the base of the climb are 38.98932, -104.91043.
Protection
A standard rack to 3".