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Peak Mountain 3

Keystone Route

FA R. Green/ M. Kubiak 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the direct finish variation that branches off of the standard routes second pitch. Excellent rock quality and gear. You might consider back cleaning your first piece to reduce drag. the rope also has a tendency to get jammed in a crack at the first roof. Just place a piece there and the rope won’t slide in as easily if at all.

Location

After P2 you move up past the horn  and up part of the curving lay back crack until you reach a comfortable stance at the route divergence. An arete forms which you bear hug and then step out left. A Lost Arrow piton used to be in the small horizontal crack which now protects with the smallest tricam or a BD 00 cam.

From there you continue to move up a steep series of roofs.  There’s a nice little alcove to rest in before the last few moves take you up a finger crack.

Belay off slung blocks.

Protection

A set of stoppers and BD cams from 00-1 There are two LA pitons as well.