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Peak Mountain 3

Tres Amigos

FA Vrba, Griz, Jacek
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a great adventure climb! If you climb this route, please help clean it by ripping out moss and tossing loose rock. It has a chance to be a good route. Be cautious in the Spring or Fall. There may be ice, and the rock will probably be wet, it was originally climbed as a mixed ice/rock route. This is a Northeast-facing wall with slab, ledges, and overhangs.

P1. Start on the right side of the bottom slab near the corner of the Diamond Wall. Scramble up the dirty slab and ledges to the first bolted anchor located near a small tree (5.5 R).

P2. Climb up and slightly to the left through more dirty slabs and ledges, and then cut back to your right towards a bigger tree, girth-hitch the tree for additional protection, and make your way up to the first roof. Below this roof you will find the 2nd bolted anchor (5.6 R).

P3. Follow the obvious corner up to the next big roof. There is lots of good rock but also a fair amount of loose rock and moss (5.9).

Descent: three 70 meter rappels will get you down. Hike up to the right. You will find a big spruce with some cord and blue webbing and a rap ring. This will give you an exciting free hanging rappel back to the first roof with the bolted anchor.

Location

Begin left of the Diamond Wall in a shallow, left-facing corner.

Protection

A standard set of cams to 6".