The Tapeworm

This is a good steep aid line that climbs the Southeast face of the formation between Deadmans Party and Run Amok. To approach, hike the trail to inbetween Cottontail Tower and the Titan and hike up the hill to the base of the route.

P1- This used to be some free climbing and some tricky moves but unfortunately somebody has drilled a bolt ladder. Climb the bolt ladder to the ledge directly below Run Amok. Traverse left on the ledge until you come to thin cracks that rise from the left end of the ledge.

P2- Difficult thin nailing on a very steep wall to a hanging belay at bolts. (A3+)

P3- Moderate nailing in a right leaning corner which progressively gets harder and scarier until you reach another hanging belay at bolts. (A3)

P4- Climb the steep mud curtain above and into a chimney system with nailing and hooking. The belay is from bolts on the outside of the chimney on the right side. (A3)

P5- Climb a bolt ladder to some 5.9 free climbing in a chimney (really good) When the free climbing runs out, climb another long bolt ladder to a shallow alcove. Above the alcove some very shallow knifeblade moves will get you to a small diving board formation where you make a mantle. From there, a difficult move gets you to another short bolt ladder and another hanging belay. (A3+)

P6- Nail a moderate corner and then more difficult aid to the top of the tower.

To descend, rappel the opposite side of the tower from the routes final anchors down a deep, wide chimney called the bowels of the tapeworm. Its 4 or 5 raps to get down. The descent is clean and hassle free.

John Slezak and I did the second ascent of this route in full winter conditions in December of 1994. We climbed it without fixed ropes and bivied in portaledges for three nights. It was cold, and for the first three days there were blizzards of snow and slush. One storm happened while John was leading the chimney on pitch four. I was at the belay and mud and water poured out of the chimney next to me for a couple hours. It was like being next to a chocolate waterfall. The final day of the climb was my 19th birthday. The summit was a good birthday present.

Full aid rack- Pins from beaks to big angles, two sets of cams from tiny to #4 Camalot. Micro nuts, stoppers and hooks.