- Edit (TBD)
Description
Make some tricky initial moves in a left-facing corner past a bolt to gain the main crack. Patience placing gear will yield good protection. Climb the main crack (pin) to easier but unprotected climbing to the anchor. Var 1: 5.7 PG - Before the Taboo Crack - ride the lowest portion of the traversing flake into the crack as early as possible (possible ground fall) while staying above the lip of the roof and below the first bolt. Set seams with micros and cruise to the top. Var 2: PROJECT - Begin below the roof on shady flakes and crust with pebbles, one large pocket, to corner jug starting the Taboo Crack, pull roof with awkward feet, climb Taboo Crack to finish.
Location
The first chunk of substantial rock encountered when hiking in from the steep section of The Long Trail.
Protection
I recall mainly small to mid-size pro. Leave a comment if that is inaccurate but it will be obvious from the ground.
Descent: Fixed Anchor rappel station