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MapDescription
Pitch 1 - Squeeze up the wide flake to a stance (5.10 and optional gear belay), then continue up the left-facing corner with stemming and thin jams to a big ledge (5.10+). Belay from bolted anchor. A long pitch or can be broken into two pitches after the squeeze start.
Pitch 2 - Climb up the steep to overhanging finger crack in the left-facing corner past a few drilled pins to the top of the pillar (5.11c). Belay from fixed anchor.
Descent - (1) Single rope rappel to big ledge, (2) walk off to the left or do a double rope rappel to the ground.
Location
Route starts on the left side of the pillar.
Protection
(2) set of Camalots from #.4 - #4, extra finger and tight hands sizes, (1) set nuts, (1) set wires
Routes in The Sorcerer's Apprentice
- 1Sorcerer's Apprentice Left5.11cTrad