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Peak Mountain 3

The Raw Deal

FA Chris Heideman and the professor (summer 2006)
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Description

This is the old approach pitch for the Left and Right Deals. Avoid it in favor of A Better Deal. However, you insist.......

Look for some bolts on the gray slab (drilled on lead and not optimally placed). Climb up and left following the bolts. Mantle and start a long unprotected traverse right with lots of rope drag.

The goal is to gain the top of a block below the alcove that contains the Left and Right Deals. There are two options:

  1. grunge up the rotten OW that forms the left edge of the block (poor pro, don't fall)

or

  1. continue traversing and climb the dirty dihedral that forms the right edge of the block, passing a small tree (the rope drag is nearly insurmountable)

Protection

Standard rack and long runners. An OW sized cam may provide psychological protection for the left finish.

Location

Walk 1/4 mile up the wash from the initial narrows to the next narrows. After a sharp left turn you will see the the obvious alcove on the left side above a gray friction slab. The route goes up this slab.