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Peak Mountain 3

Keep the River Free

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Description

This route is unlisted in the recent Luebben/Cross/Scott Poudre Canyon Routes guidebook, but appears on the Greyrock topo as route #69 on the Southeast Face.

P1 - Climb the fun, moderate face immediately right of

Black Dog

's first pitch (pro in a thin crack) up to the apex of the roof system. Pull through the roof (10a) on a finger crack and fun stemming to a stance immediately above. Climb cracks and the face above to a ledge system where a belay can be had. 5.10a, 130 feet.

P2 & 3 - Climb a crack off the ledge with a right-ward kink to it's terminus and traverse left across a water streak to another crack - set a belay where convenient. The rest of the climb follows the Greyrock crack/face mantra up moderate terrain to the top of the wall. 2 pitches of moderate length, 5.7+, possible runouts depending on your particular line.

Location

Immediately right of

Black Dog

a very thin seam/crack splits the face and leads directly up to a sizable roof with two cracks. This seam, and the roof above, are the first pitch.

Protection

A standard rack to #3 Camalot is just fine for this route; as always, a set of TCUs or the like is useful for the occasional thin crack.