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Peak Mountain 3

Dixie Normus

FA Jeff Erickson, 2012; direct start added 2020 Jonathan Nickel
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UPDATED 

Description

The beautiful finger cracks on the upper 3/4 of this climb were climbed by Erickson in 2012 by traversing in from the right after climbing the start of Wide Crack.  A direct start with three bolts was added in 2020, making the route an excellent independent line. Start by scrambling up 6' to the ledge below Wide Crack, move left on the ledge and stand up on a block.  Face climb up past a small overhang and right-facing corner, then follow bolts slightly left to the start of the crack.  Climb the outstanding finger crack up and a little left (almost to 5 Star Crack), then up and right, as the crack jogs right at several horizontals to a two bolt anchor with rings at the top of the cliff.

Location

Just right of the large dead tree near the center of the cliff.

Protection

The route can be safely led ground up (green Alien in the horizontal under the small overhang), but it is possible to use a long stick clip to clip the first bolt. After the three bolts, the route follows a remarkably consistent finger-sized crack to the anchor. Therefore, bring many finger-sized cams (blue and yellow Metolius, green and yellow Aliens, 0.2 - 0.4 Black Diamond). Triples in that range would be appropriate. The crack generally does not take nuts well. There is no need for any gear larger than a 0.75 Camalot, although there is an optional #4 Camalot placement in a horizontal 3/4 of the way up.