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Peak Mountain 3

Temporary Clemency

FA Paul Heyliger & Brian Parsons,1986?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The bolted slab between

Urban Development

and

Kirk's Corner

. Start as for

Kirk's Corner

, climb off the ground to the horizontal crack to the left. Hand traverse the crack to left to the arete. A small cam placement is possible here, prior to turning the corner to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt and make a tricky move up onto the slab. Follow the bolts up and left via some very thin moves with an ocassional sloping knob. There is serious fall potential between the second and third bolt, ground fall very possible if near the third bolt. After the fourth bolt, traverse left across a good flake to the finish of

Urban Development

.

Overall, the climbing is very good and consistant almost the whole length. In my opinion, the route would be well served to have one more bolt between the second and third. As it stands now it is a very serious lead.

Protection

4 5/16 bolts of ok condition. Possible small cam prior to 1st bolt. The second bolt is a spinner and should possibly be replaced because it protects the most serious fall potential.

To top rope, rap down clipping the bolts for directionals.