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900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores
Description
Steep face climbing, sort of like an easier version of Model Worker.
Start to the left of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Eraserhead", at a slightly elevated region behind an old stump. A few moves on a flake take you to a steep, sustained headwall with bolts. The crux is not a single move, but rather the pumpy sequence to the third bolt. Being flexible can help here. Though originally rated 10c, the route has been known to stop solid 5.11 climbers.
A chained anchor lies at the top. One can rap with a single 60-m rope.
From the anchor, one can do a short bit of easy climbing to reach the anchor on "Prairie fire" to top-rope the latter. Conversely, one can top-rope "900" from the anchors on "Prairie fire".
Protection
Five bolts. Helpful to bring a hand-to-wide-hands camming unit for the flake above the 4th bolt. Small nuts may be helpful before and after the 5th bolt.
Routes in Private Idaho
- 8900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores5.11aTrad