Charybdis

This cool climb was literally cleaned into existence. Unlike many of the newer hard trad lines at the Reef this one actually relies on bomber gear to protect the crux secton. It is a striking left angling weakness that leads to a clean corner with thin cracks and critical unusual holes in the lower angled left face. A double length Alpine runner can be used to sling a flake making the bomber thread in the holes a safe endeavor. The thread makes getting good gear in before attacking the corner very safe. Great pro is there but it takes a bit to work out how to get in position to place it. A small 1/4 inch stopper, green camalot and a finger sized yellow Metolius cam were used here by the three of us who redpointed it. Most will step on to ledges below the bolted wide section and take a much needed rest. Be sure to pull back around do the fun laybacks up the wide section. Once you are back in it you will see why you left those ledges instead of wandering right and up. it also allows you to clip the second of two bolts.Two more cruxes above are protected by bolts and will keep you focused to the end. You will cross a section of the route Treebeard with gear to reach the last bolt. An actual ton of loose blocks and flakes were pried away to make it a safe venture. The caveat to this is that it starts by climbing the first 20 feet of Snow Arch which is maybe 5.8+/9-. The pro in this section except for the first piece, a Green Camalot, is thin and in rock that makes me not want to test it. Having said that, the rest of the route is so good it is worth carefully climbing this less than ideal section.

Follow the trail from Aegir to Poseidon. Where you reach the gully you will be below a number of left facing weaknesses. Look for the one with the bolted bombay wide section.

Doubles from 000 to red Camalots, small wired nuts to thin fingers, one alpine draw to thread hole and a double to sling the top of a big flake, separate anchors with Steel lower off biners.