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Peak Mountain 3

East Face

FA Herb and Jan Conn
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route mostly follows the original Conn route done in 1949. Only the 3rd pitch splits off of the first ascent line. The climb is all 5.3 or under except one 5.6 move at the beginning of the 3rd pitch. Look for a heavily trampled area in the grass on the east side of the spire.

Pitch 1: Climb up the water drainage through sometimes very large crystals. One of the coolest parts of this climb is a near vertical section in a large quartz band. The pitch ends at an obvious set of fixed anchors.

Pitch 2: Finish climbing to the top of the water drainage. The last move is the hardest, and requires a belly flop for some on to a huge belay ledge with fixed anchors.

Pitch 3: This variation is probably the standard now. Climb up the face above, using 1 bolt to get off a ledge on to the face. Make a few moves to fixed anchors at the top.The highest point is a "jump" away. If you want, carefully head over to the true summit.

To descend, rap the route. Make sure to bring 2 ropes.

Protection

Standard Rack. Protection is sparse in places, but definitely adequate.