Peg Arete

"Is "choss" the right term for it? What's it called when it just crumbles at your fingertips?" --My partner when I asked her to describe the Peg Arete. "Well, either way it's a classic - a must do!"

Imagine 500' of pure pegamatite climbing on an exposed rib!

Very few people may actually want to get on this, but do you THINK you love the Black? This route will really separate the true Black connoisseurs from the herd. The Peg Arete has easily the worst rock of any route I've done. The route finding is basically tip toeing up either side of the arete looking for anything that will hold body weight. I can't believe this line was free-solo'd. Holy shit. Big respect.

Here are some [of our] reasons to consider this gem: a) you need a shady route, b) you're partner rolled her ankle a week ago and can't foot jam, c) you only have a small rack of gear you've bootied, d) it's going to rain at noon, or e) you fucking love adventure routes.

If you rope up for this, don't expect much gear. I placed one piece per pitch. Here is a breakdown on how we did it:

P1. Stay on the arete as much as possible, but move left into a groove at the bulge. Simul is a must to reach a good ledge/tree for a belay, 250 feet.

P2. More non-descript peg leads to a big ledge. This is where things get tricky. I ended up going just to the right of a groove/corner and just to the left of the true arete. There is no gear (slung a shitty horn above the crux, really just to help the follower with route-finding/swinging). Belay off a big horn on a small ledge, 150 feet.

P3. I tried to go right and get into that big chimney, but, man, the rock got sooo bad. I ended up traversing left 25' to find a weakness in a bulge. Move back right to the arete, and top this crazy rig out!, 100+ feet.

The new guidebook lists this as 5.6 R, and I honestly think this is a bit of a sandbag, especially when the stakes are pretty high at the cruxes. Personally, I think calling this 5.7 is still a little stiff (but I'm getting soft in my old age ;) and maybe I was off-route....

If you are squeamish or judgmental about choss (or you're from the Front Range), this route is not for you ;) but we loved it - a great little adventure in an obscure part of the park, comfy belay ledges, and a wild feature!

Once you reach the fixed line in Guppy Gully, you can't miss it! Look skier's left, and behold a 500' pink arete!

#2 & 4 Friend and slings.