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Peak Mountain 3

The Shadow of Fear

FA Keiko Tanaka, Joe Shultz, Crusher Bartlett, 4/19/2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: Climb the crack up and slightly right. It becomes less continuous higher. End at a 2-bolt belay on the left (90’, A3-).

Pitch 2: Step right and climb the continuation crack, which quickly thins down. Work up and into a vertical groove and continue to a 2-bolt anchor (85’ A3).

Pitch 3: Step right. Soft rock transitions to hard dirt with embedded cobbles. Once past the slot between the two Mini-Cooper-size boulders, reach easier ground and a 2-bolt belay on the summit block (A2+, “R”, 40’).

Scramble 10’ to the summit.

Descent: Downclimb from the summit to the topmost bolts. Rappel with care 40 feet to the top of pitch 2. Rappel (two ropes) to the ground.

Location

Begin on the north face, left of center, where a crack system reaches the ground, directly under the highest summit/boulder of the formation.

Protection

Gear: 24 peckers/beaks selection, 3 Spectres, 2 sets angles 1-6 (3/8-1½), 2 knifeblades, 8 Lost Arrows (long), 1 Warthog, small selection medium-large nuts, cams: 1 set from 0.5” to 5” (inc a few offsets), slings/Screamers/quickdraws.


Routes in The Mysteron


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    The Shadow of Fear
    5.7
    Trad · Aid