The Dark Tower

Fantastic climbing on a modern route. Quality rock and interesting climbing.

P1, 5.10, 100': Start in a small, left-facing corner (gear). Some tenuous finger locks near the top of the corner lead to easier climbing before busting left on the face. Closely spaced bolts lead up to the imposing roof, which goes much easier than it looks, on good crimps and sidepulls to a spacious ledge and bolted belay.

P2, 5.10, 100': Steep, bolted climbing (7 b's) on fantastic patina edges lead to a small ledge. Move right to a shallow crack (gear protected) and climb on edges and jams to an alcove (b) and bolted stance to the left.

P3, 5.10, 150': Start left, then move right and back left under a small tree. Slabby, and a bit more run-out than the previous pitch. You will definitely be making 5.10 moves above bolts, but the wall is clean. Belay at a bolted stance left of a small left-facing corner.

P4, 5.10, 60': Tricky moves off the belay on sandy, rounded rock lead to a bolt. Move right into a short finger crack (gear) and a ledge and bolt anchor.

Descent: Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes. With double rope rappels, you can go straight from the top of P2 to the ground.

The route is in the Kung Fu Theater, past Enter the Dragon. The beautiful, and short Inner Chi is just left (about 30'). Start below the huge roof on the face of this buttress.

Single rack from fingers to 2"

10 qd's, 2 or 3 shoulder length slings