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Peak Mountain 3

Rat-catcher

FA Tyler Hill, 9/10/20
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climbs the far left side of the Headwall between Chimney Sweep and When the Cat's Away, the Mice Will Play. After climbing the slab moves of the 2nd pitch on Touching the Sky this route cuts left. A short lower crux leads to a sloping ledge rest and then a boulder problem through small edges takes you to the top of the Headwall.

There is one cruxy clip after the rest on the ledge where a fall may result in hitting said ledge. Unfortunately because the anchor is above the lip of the Headwall it is not recommended to TR due to rope drag but you can work the moves on a TR solo setup just fine.

Location

Start at the anchors for the second pitch of Touching the Sky. Climb through the first 6 bolts of Touching the Sky and cut left across the upper slab to the first bolt of Rat-catcher. Climb straight up bolts to the top.

Alternative and more direct start could be from the start of Chimney Sweep if you don't mind a run-out over easy but loose terrain.

Protection

15 bolts. Single length slings and/or back cleaning help for rope drag through the slab.