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Peak Mountain 3

Dessert Eagle

FA Mark Krebs and Dave Daly (Nov 2021)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the ring anchors at the start of the route, climb right and up onto a small ledge. Climb the left leaning crack for 20' where you'll encounter the crux (.10b). Be sure to get in a decent cam then make a delicate step out on the steep face and then step up onto a knob. Keep climbing the last portion of the crack before it peters out. The climbing eases up from there. Move right and up to meet up with an easy flaring crack. Continue up this crack and finally to the anchors.

Location

'Dessert Eagle' is located on the Lower Buttress but is best accessed from the base of The Main Wall. Once at the base of The Main Wall, continue on a climbers trail. Use caution since the trail traverses close to the edge of the lower rock faces. Continue to a large boulder near the top edge of the Lower Buttress. As a point of reference, the route is directly below the left side of the black recess. Ring anchors are located just over the edge (left) of the top of the Lower Buttress.  Rap here. A 70 meter rope will get you to the anchors below.

Protection

  • 70 meter rope

  • Pro: 1/4" to 1", emphasis on finger sizes