Relapse Prevention

If you are struggling with your crack addiction, this might be the cure you’re looking for—or perhaps you’ll find yourself back into the cycle of addiction. The climb has continually excellent moves but is marred by an awkward flirtation between gorgeous varnish and insecure, sandy rock.

Up the thin-hand crack (harder than it looks) and more cracks to the ledge. Hug a sandy pillar. Gain the slot & its delightful crack systems. Up to the slightly overhanging crack/corner. Here, “uncertainty and conflicting emotions [may] begin to play a role.” Haul yourself out on the face on the right. Continue up the crack & face in solid rock to the flats.

On the climber's left/lower end of the cliff, a narrow buttress with a prominent thin-hands crack in high quality rock at its base descends from the ledge system below the roof.

Descent: Scramble climber’s right up a gully; at its top, climb a bonus pitch (5.6ish), a wide (#4/#5 camalots) crack whose top is roughly below Clyde Finds Wellington. From here, down and climber’s right to the climber's left end of the Slot Club Wall, including a short down climb. Descend skier’s left below Slot Club Wall until it is possible to zig (skier’s right) back to the base of Lower Slot Club

nuts, tiny cams #5 camalot, extra fingers to fist