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Peak Mountain 3

Karma Mechanic

FA SG, OW
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Karma Mechanic is another Cochise gem that's absolutely worth leaving your house for. Solid rock, engaging climbing on fun features, and an incredible setting looking out over the valley and canyons of the west side. It's a proud line in a really special place. Thanks to local climbing association and their A-team for recent bolt replacements!

I think people are doing this in two pitches, but the first pitch is the attraction, and the short second pitch offers an escape up to rap anchors on uninspiring rock. But all rock is rock, and we're grateful for that.

Start the pitch in an splitter hand crack that will have you saying "Woop!" It eventually tapers out as you make an interesting move up to the first bolt. Traverse left on some 5.10 slab movements protected by bolt to enter a corner/seem thing. There's no immediate pro here but the climbing is easier and eventually takes you up to some jugs and placement opportunities. Shake out a bit if needed and continue up rounded knobs to the roof and next bolt. This bolt protects the crux, a facey crimpey gastoney 10+. After this physical hurdle, cast off up/right towards another bolt way up there. The rock here isn't bullet proof, but it feels no harder than 8+/9- R and the routefinding is really straightforward. I'm not sure what a fall would look like up here, but I wouldn't want to take it. Fortunately there's a sprinkling of incredible positive edges that might have you saying "Woop!" all over again. Finally clip the bolt then finish some easier slab moves up and left while wishing your rope drag wasn't quite so heavy. Wonderful long pitch.

No anchors here; medium/big cams for the belay.

Spot the single bolt on the face behind you and scramble up easy slab to a set of top out anchors. Believe the bolt and anchor was added in recent years to access this top out.

Location

From the jaw-dropping KM OW, scramble climbers left up through a cool little channel, take the opportunity to compliment your partners eyes in the dim lighting, and eventually pop out on a nice ledge in front of the obvious hand crack. This is a nice perch on it's own right. Easy to scope out from approach.

Descent: From the second pitch top out, do two rappels back towards the west. Note that the rap anchors don't have rings at this time - beware of old tat and be prepared to replace webbing/slings as needed.

Protection

Standard rack to #3, handful of draws. #4 useful at belay but not on route. 60m rope should get you up and down.


Routes in Karma Mechanic